Located in Sandoval County approximately 45-50 miles from Bernalillo and Rio Rancho, Jémez Historic Site preserves the early Giusewa Pueblo that first came into existence in the late 15th century. In the Towa language, the word "Giusewa" refers to a "place at boiling water," a name that describes this area where warm thermal springs meet with the Jémez River.
The Jémez people continue to speak Towa today. Similar to some other Indigenous languages, there is no written form of the Towa language; no transcription is permitted within the Pueblo's customs.
Settlers of the Giusewa Pueblo are ancestrally connected with residents of the present-day Jémez Pueblo, located a few miles south of this site. Visiting these locations during a drive along New Mexico Highway 4 allows you to encounter an area with great historical significance.
The Giusewa Pueblo existed at this location 400 years ago. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Jémez Pueblo
A short distance north of San Ysidro, the Jémez Pueblo is a vibrant settlement with nearly 2,000 residents who live alongside Highway 4. Known as the Walatowa within their community, the Jémez people live in an area with impressive geological formations.
On many days, Indigenous vendors from the Jémez Pueblo sell food during the late morning and afternoon. Their menus vary, but often include frybread (sopaipilla), Navajo tacos, tamales, and hamburgers (made with mini frybread, instead of buns).
Jémez Springs
The small community of Jémez Springs has approximately 200 people and sits 6,200 feet above sea level. Visitors can enjoy thermal springs as they relax and admire the sheer cliffs and mountains to the east and west of them. The Jémez River flows through this community.
Cliffs along the west side of the Jémez River. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Another view of cliffs near the Jémez River. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Remnants of a structure along Highway 4 south of Jémez Springs. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The heart of Jémez Springs. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The small community of Jémez Springs has its own public library. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Jémez Historic Site
Spanish explorers first came to the San Diego Canyon in the 1580s. Franciscan missionaries decided to settle near the Giusewa Pueblo in 1598. Fray Alonso de Lugo led these efforts, building a simple church before leaving in 1601.
In 1621, Geronimo de Zarate Salmeron arrived at Giusewa with plans to build a larger church. Between 1621 and 1623, Jémez laborers performed most of the work to construct the church, including a very rare and large bell tower.
A ceremonial kiva, site of Indigenous ceremonies, is along the trail. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Records do not indicate that a regular priest ever delivered services at this mission. A small campo santo (holy field) exists in front of the church. Although no gravesites are marked, this was the location where Jémez people who converted to Catholicism would have been buried.
The probable location of the Campo Santo. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The original kiva had a square shape. A variety of living quarters existed in close proximity to the church. Some of these sites have been partially restored since the early 1920s, to give an indication of their presence and location.
The Spanish and Jémez had left this area by the mid- or late 1600s. The former San Jose mission fell into disrepair over the course of centuries. Jémez settlements remained in the area, but the impressive church fell out of use.
By the late 1800s, farmers and ranchers began arriving in the area. Early excavations of the structures and ruins took place in 1910, with substantial efforts taking place in 1921, 300 years after the church's original construction. The state received this land as a donation in 1921.
New Mexico turned this site into a State Monument in 1935. During the late 1930s, members of the Civilian Conservation Corps made improvements. Workers continued to excavate portions of the site, and restored some sections of the mission with stone, mud, and wood.
Inside the San Jose de los Jémez Church
As one enters the church, they notice the restoration efforts include carefully reconstructed wooden lintel beams that support the weight of the stones above. Although the original beams disappeared centuries ago, the replacements are authentic in their design to the period.
Entering San Jose de los Jémez. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The Jémez Historic Site has pathways that allow access to many of the structures. The grounds can be walked in less than 20 minutes for those who wish to visit on a tight schedule. The visitor center includes displays that tell the story of the Jémez people.
Remnants from an earlier settlement blend into the landscape. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A Short Drive from Jémez
Highway 4 continues as a mountainous road that passes through the Santa Fe National Forest, Valles Caldera National Preserve, and Bandelier National Monument before reaching Los Alamos. Winter driving may require great care, as portions of the road are quite narrow with hairpin turns.
A Catholic monastery sits across the street from Jémez Historic Site. Via Coeli (the Way to Heaven) was established as a site to help troubled priests. The history of this location is somewhat shrouded in mystery and secrecy, in part due to the situation that many priests found themselves in before arriving here.
For those who have a few extra mintues, two notable natural landmarks are just a few miles north of the Jémez Historic Site: Soda Dam and Battleship Rock.
Soda Dam is a natural and ever-growing and changing feature along the Jémez River, a few steps from the pull-out along Highway 4. A warm, underground thermal stream with high levels of calicum carbonate runs into the river at this point. The warm water is heated by subterranean magma at Valles Caldera.
On final stop on this visit is to Battleship Rock, an impressive feature in the Santa Fe National Forest. A picnic area is available near the rock.
I highly recommend a visit to Jémez Historic Site, Jémez Pueblo's public areas, and Jémez Springs. These scenic destinations unveil more than 400 years of human history in one of the most beautiful areas of New Mexico.
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