Farolitos lighting the grounds of an art gallery along Canyon Road. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Less than a half-mile southeast of Santa Fe Plaza, Canyon Road is home to many art galleries and boutiques. This road is a popular location to visit some of the best artists in northern New Mexico.
Farolitos just before sunset at a gallery in Santa Fe. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Throughout the year, the artists on Canyon Road host talks, strolls, and other gatherings. One of the most popular events is the annual Christmas Eve Farolito Walk. Thousands gather and enjoy fellowship along the narrow roadway. This New Mexican tradition is one to know about if you ever visit the area in late December.
Seasonal Gatherings in Santa Fe
Santa Fe Plaza late in the afternoon on December 17. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Santa Fe Plaza hosts a number of events throughout the year. These include major events, such as the Santa Fe Indian Market, and smaller or impromptu gatherings.
Lighting the menorah to celebrate the Festival of Lights during Hanukkah. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Sunset on December 17 at the Santa Fe Plaza. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A Candle-in-the-Sand Tradition
Farolitos in Albuquerque's Old Town, with San Felipe de Neri Catholic Church in the background. Courtesy of Palace of the Governors, UNM Digital Collections.
Farolitos have been associated with the Christmas season in New Mexico and parts of the American Southwest for many years. They trace their origin to other areas of the former Spanish colonial empire, including ornamental lanterns known as parols in the Philippines.
Preparing farolitos on Canyon Road during a snowy day in 1990. Courtesy of Palace of the Governors, UNM Digital Collections.
These lights have become very popular decorations throughout New Mexico. Traditional farolitos include a small votive candle placed in sand within a paper bag. The sand helps to keep the candle in place. Numerous farolitos are placed in lines to guide those walking along pathways at night.
Jémez Historic Site during Lights of Gisewa. Courtesy of New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs.
Today, many homes decorate with electric farolitos that are similar to other wired lights. Instead of a paper bag, these lights sit within a plastic container that resembles a bag. Other locations, such as the Jémez Historic Site, have traditional farolitos for an annual Lights of Gisewa event.
Farolitos or Luminarias?
People sometimes mark events or remember loved ones on their farolitos. Photo by Jim Schnur.
In many areas, these lighted displays placed in rows are known as luminarias. Although the words "farolito" and "luminaria" are sometimes used interchangeably, in many areas of northern New Mexico and especially Santa Fe, "farolito" is the preferred term, since it translates into "little lantern" in Spanish. In the Santa Fe region, "luminaria" refers more to bonfires that take place during vigils, rather than the paper lanterns with candles.
Electric farolitos on the Santa Fe Public Library. Photo by Jim Schnur.
This debate about the proper term is similar to one associated with other words that have very close or identical meanings. For example, "frybread," "Indian fry bread," "sopaipilla," and "sopapilla" all generally refer to the same type of flat bread, although local groups may have a strong preference for one term over the others.
Christmas Eve in Santa Fe
A mariachi band singing tunes at the Santa Fe Plaza. Photos by Jim Schnur.
I arrived in Santa Fe late in the afternoon, taking the New Mexico Rail Runner commuter rail to Santa Fe Depot so that I would not have to search for a parking space. As I arrived at the Plaza, crowds gathered around a mariachi band, while others visited with Indigenous vendors at the Palace of the Governors.
People enjoying the Plaza during the late afternoon. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The chile pepper menorah in Santa Fe Plaza. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Some people drove into town in their classic cars. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Farolitos at the Cathedral
Farolitos at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Photo by Jim Schnur.
I walked one block east of the Plaza to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The ringing bells attracted many to an indoor service, with others standing by the open entrance. Members of the parish lit the candles within the farolitos that surrounded the building.
Lighting the lanterns at the church. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Many people stood by the entrance to listen to the service. Photo by Jim Schnur.
With sunset taking place just before 5 p.m., I began walking a few blocks southeast to Canyon Road. A wave of people headed in that direction. I arrived in time to see the area transition from light to night.
Leaving the cathedral to head to Canyon Road. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Canyon Road on Christmas Eve
Entering Canyon Road at Paseo de Peralta. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A variety of galleries, jewelers, and artists call Canyon Road home. This narrow street is part of the route for the free Santa Fe Pick-Up shuttle that runs throughout downtown. With Canyon Road and portions of nearby streets closed, pedestrians took over the area on Christmas Eve.
Crowds strolling along Canyon Road near Paseo de Peralta. Photo by Jim Schnur.
The lighting of the farolitos is an event that is much more than an arts stroll. Numerous firepits allow participants to warm themselves next to the burning piñon logs. Food and drinks are available for purchase. Carolers sing joyful songs, encouraging others to join along with them.
Many galleries remained open for this event. Photo by Jim Schnur.
During many years, a dusting of snow covers much of Santa Fe in late December. High temperatures may reach into the 40s, but low nighttime temperatures usually stay below 20 degrees. This year, however, we have experienced a very warm December, so the snow that covered the ground at the beginning of the month melted away weeks ago.
Seats outside one of the galleries on Canyon Road. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Entering the grounds of one of the galleries with a piñon firepit. Photos by Jim Schnur.
Farolitos near the Buddhas and the Goddess of Mercy. Photos by Jim Schnur.
Many of the galleries had refreshments. Some offered traditional drinks, such as coffee, hot cocoa, and spiced apple cider. Biscochitos, the shortbread cookies that are enjoyed throughout New Mexico, were found at some locations. Other vendors sold everything from bagels to burritos.
Warm refreshments at a popular store that usually sells Tibetan rugs. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A relaxing walk through one of the sites. Photo by Jim Schnur.
As the early evening skies darkened, crowds increased. Some people and their canine companions wore flashing Christmas light necklaces, while many others proudly had red chile light necklaces flashing on them.
Pedestrians filled Canyon Road after the setting of the sun. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Many of the galleries decorated their grounds with farolitos, giving people a reason to stop and glance at their locations. In addition, pedestrians carefully navigated around the farolitos that covered many of the sidewalks along more than a half-mile of the road.
Some locations had farolitos that numbered in the hundreds. Photos by Jim Schnur.
Vendors selling food and drink, many with piñon firepits nearby. Photos by Jim Schnur.
Caroling took place in front of some businesses. Others had musicians and various performers to entertain those who enjoyed their stroll. Many galleries welcomed visitors indoors to see the jewelry, artwork, and crafts within them.
Carolers singing and encouraging others to join them. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Gathering to listen to a musician. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Many of the galleries have permanent artwork outside of their studios. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Lights shine along Canyon Road as the skies get dark. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A team of fire perfomers entertained guests in front of one gallery. Photo by Jim Schnur.
A Quick Return to the Plaza
Approaching the cathedral with farolitos guiding the way. Photo by Jim Schnur.
I left Canyon Road as new waves of people arrived. This event continued until around 9 p.m. Rather than go directly to the depot, I decided to take one last walk past the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi and spend some time in the Plaza.
The rose gardens and park at Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. Photo by Jim Schnur
The lights at Santa Fe Plaza attracted crowds into the evening. Locals and tourists alike admired the view. Indigenous drummers from a local Pueblo performed into the evening. Although most of the stores had closed, the city was alive.
Enlightening views of Santa Fe Plaza. Photos by Jim Schnur.
Indigenous drummers brought warm music to the evening. Photo by Jim Schnur.
After enjoying one last view of the Plaza, I returned to Santa Fe Depot to catch an evening Rail Runner train back home. The 50-mile rail journey allowed me to relax for an hour, before retrieving my car in a nearly empty parking lot. I plan to return to Santa Fe next Christmas Eve to enjoy the farolitos once again.
The last views of a busy Plaza before heading home. Photo by Jim Schnur.
Comfortable seats and hand-painted cheer on the windows of Rail Runner. Photo by Jim Schnur.
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